Routesetter - Vertical World, Seattle
"Climbing specific injuries, especially pulley injuries, have not been very well studied and few doctors understand the demands that climbing places on our fingers. Dr. Warme understands these demands and has used his climbing and medical background along with 20 years of research to create the SPOrt specifically for healing and stabilizing climbing specific pulley injuries. As a climber and professional routesetter I have had to deal with many finger injuries over the years, including pulley reconstruction surgery.
I participated in Dr. Warme's study on the SPOrt and saw through an ultrasound machine the SPOrt keeping my A2 pulley closer to the bone as I crimped. This has given me great confidence in the product and I can't recommend it enough for any climber out there suffering through a pulley injury."
Over the past decade or two I’ve experienced an array of different pulley injuries. It seems like more often than not I find myself taping up at least one of my middle or ring fingers when I’m at the crag. At least that was the case until I started using the SPOrt.
While taping certainly does help to get you back on the wall sooner after a tendon injury, it doesn’t mean it’s actually helping you heal while doing so. For months at a time I would find myself taping the same pulleys to get me through another climbing sesh, but my pulleys would not heal without simply taking time off... which I don’t want to do.
With the SPOrt however, I’ve been able to keep climbing with sore or strained pulleys and my injuries have actually been getting better while still out tackling projects. It honestly seems that my recovery time is quicker than just taking time off from climbing. Perhaps this is due to more blood flow through the fingers or maybe it’s just because I’m not spending my spare time watching the clock count down while I daydream about getting back on the wall.
Whether your injury is mild and you are trying to climb your way to health or you are coming back off a more serious injury, I highly recommend using SPOrt until the pain subsides and you’re feeling confident in your grippers again.
Happy healing y'all, and send on!
“Last summer, I was feeling strong, and my overconfidence led me to trying a route with multiple hard moves to and from monos. I walked away from the route with a partial tear in my a2 pulley. The next few weeks nothing seemed to work. A lack of climbing (or exercising my fingers) seemed to make my ring finger stiff and painful, while pulling on routes with crimps also resulted in pain. Soon after, I started using the SPOrt. I was able to climb to my heart’s content again (within reason).
The SPOrt has found its way into my daily first aid kit, and since pulley injuries take an extended time to heal, I will occasionally put it on when my finger still doesn’t feel quite right. Hats off Dr. Warme for a great tool in the recovery arsenal.”
3rd Place at the Youth World Climbing Championships - Italy, 2019
"While training this summer, Brian strained his shoulder which then led to a pulley injury to his right middle finger shortly before going to Italy. He was devastated and wondered if it was even worth going. Taping was not helping and the finger was severely swollen/painful despite many last minute interventions.
Don Mason introduced us to the SPOrt a few days prior to the comp and he set us up with a kit. Brian wore it consistently.
Despite the injury, Brian placed 3rd out of 75 climbers that day, topped all 4 boulder problems and I know this would not have happened if he had not been able to stabilize and protect his finger for those few crucial days prior to the comp.
As a side note, we could not resist climbing outside while in Arco after the comp, and despite the injured fingers, Brian was able to climb steep limestone while wearing the splints without further pain/swelling."
"The SPOrt has saved my lifestyle… and my career!!!
I never expected to rupture A2, A3 and A4 pulleys in my ring finger on a casual bouldering day at the gym with friends – a similar reaction to what most may say after an injury.
Having been a climber for over 2 decades and having an active outdoor lifestyle and career as a Pararescueman in the military, more than my personal hobbies and adventures were at stake. It’s no fun watching your buddies head out the door to go climb or ride and you’re stuck at home in a cast for 5 months, especially over a needless injury.
To date, I use the SPOrt for almost everything I do - it’s worn almost as much as my wedding ring. Everything from climbing, skiing, kayaking to mtn bike riding, I find the mental assurance of knowing my finger is protected almost as important as the physical protection it provides. I even use it when fly fishing.
One of the best benefits the SPOrt provides is the durability tape doesn’t. Athletic tape works great for many aspects but it instantly falls apart when wet and degrades over time… and remembering to carry a new roll around everywhere you go can be cumbersome. Needless to say, whether I am climbing helicopter rope ladders in the middle of the sea or hucking myself out of a plane, the SPOrt is on my finger."
Head Coach - Vertical World Climbing Team
"Something all climbers deal with is finger injuries. Even the littlest tweak can shut you down for weeks or longer. My most recent problem had me off the wall for months. After talking with Dr. Warme, he recommended his new tendon brace. I was able to start climbing again while not making my finger worse and also allowing it to heal.
After a little while with the brace and other rehab techniques I was back to normal. I appreciate the work and dedication of Dr. Warme and his crew to keeping climbers on the wall during their rehab process."
"After 7 years of climbing pretty consistently, I was devastated to have sustained my first pulley injury only a few months ago. Luckily, I work in the climbing gym industry and immediately received recommendations from my colleagues to use the SPOrt. I was desperate to try anything to continue climbing, so I thought ‘why not’!
In addition to how affordable and easy the SPOrt is to utilize, it was to my surprise how much I was still able to climb and push myself while injured. I highly recommend it!"
Manager and Route Setter - Vertical World Seattle
"After injuring a pulley I started wearing a SPOrt religiously while climbing. I didn’t take much time off at all and still pushed myself. One day a few months later I went to go tape up my finger and I was left asking myself which finger had been injured. I couldn’t remember! It really works!"
"The SPOrt changed my ability to train and climb through injury. I was immediately able to climb on tenuous terrain where I had previously been limited before even with taping. It was amazing!"
"I write with great enthusiasm to share my success wearing the Semilunar Pulley Orthosis (SPOrt). For three months, I have followed an indoor training plan (three to four days a week) that included both sport climbing (5.12+) and bouldering (V6-V7) with an A2 pulley injury. The SPOrt provided reliable support to heal with maximum protection. Most important, it gave me the much needed confidence to train for efficiency and endurance for more aggressive climbs.
The effective, reinforced protection maintained my ability to make precise - dynamic movements between holds, which is a profound reason that I recommend the SPOrt as a “climber’s beta” to CLIMB ON!"
“My A2 pulley injury happened a few years back: I was bouldering on two-finger pockets and had a foot blow. When my body weight loaded my fingers, I heard a distinct “pop” from my ring finger. I felt some mild discomfort in my finger, as well as in my palm – the pain wasn’t a showstopper, but I could tell something was awry. Being the son of the Climbing Doc, I was in good hands. He fitted me with a beta-version of the SPOrt and I followed his recovery protocol. After giving the pulley time to heal, and then slowly building back into climbing, I have a happy ring finger – no pain and no problems pulling hard. Nowadays, I use the SPOrt when training (hangboard, campus board) to prevent re-injury and to avoid post-workout finger soreness.”
From the Climbing Doc: Connor had sustained a classic A2 pulley injury. He heard and felt the telltale pop, and subsequently had pain and swelling around the base of his ring finger, with some pain radiating into the palm of the hand. I had him wear a SPOrt daily for 8 weeks, and then when climbing for the following 8 weeks. His finger seemed to heal up fine and he returned to climbing without any further issues with his finger. A few years following treatment with the SPOrt, I obtained a MRI of Connor’s finger to assess the A2 pulley’s healing (as part of a research project):
This MRI image shows that the A2 pulley is holding the flexor tendons right next to the bone. My colleague Todd Greenburg, MD, a radiologist with advanced training in reading musculoskeletal MRIs, could not detect any evidence of prior injury in Connor’s finger! Exciting proof the SPOrt works!!
"I'm very fortunate to have met Dr. Warme this past season as I seemed to be running out of recovery options and recommendations for my pulley injury. His passion for climbing has helped countless climbers along the way, myself included, which resulted in my diagnosis that determined exactly where the weaknesses were in my hands.
His knowledge and patience not only improved my recovery time, but also ensured that I would not be at a higher risk of injury while climbing for many years to come."
"Having blown two A2 pulley tendons, I know what a pain it is to recover from this injury. In both instances I had the classic “pop”, then pain, then months of recovery. Fast forward a few years - I had the opportunity to participate in one of Dr. Warme’s trials, where I actually watched the ultrasound monitor as the damaged tendon in my right middle finger move away from the bone when placed under load, which wouldn’t happen if I had a functioning A2 pulley. Dr. Warme then taped a SPOrt to the same finger and the tendon didn’t move at all when placed under load!
I now climb with a SPOrt on both fingers when training in the gym to prevent further injury. It works!"
“In November of 2018, I injured my A4 in my middle finger while bouldering. I was pretty worried I’d have to take a break but a buddy recommended the SPOrt. It made such a difference! I went from Moonboard V3 to V6 with an injured A4! My finger took about 4 months to heal but I was climbing the whole time!”
“I’m an anesthesiologist and just the small bit of pressure from doing epidurals all day aggravated my pulley injury so much that it just wasn’t getting better. I’m 44 and just discovered climbing, so when I got this injury right away and it kept persisting, I figured I might as well just give it up. But then a hand surgeon I work with recommended your product.
I ordered [a SPOrt] right away, and within a week or so of wearing it my daily pain was gone. I knew better than to try to climb again that soon, so I waited the full eight weeks you recommended. I was nervous to go back, but I have never felt even a twinge of pain ever since.
I started out climbing easy but now climb hard (for me ) routes and boulder all I want without pain. I might just climb with this thing on forever. Thanks so much for a wonderful product."
“I’ve really found the SPOrt helpful over the last couple of weeks. I have been able to do easy climbing in the gym after spraining my right ring finger 4 weeks ago with the help of the SPOrt.
There is far less soreness than if I had used tape alone and it’s comforting to have the additional protection as I try my best to avoid excessively loading the finger."
“I suffered my first pulley injury pulling on crimps at Index. I heard the quintessential "pop" and I then sadly and slowly lowered, thinking my season was toast. I ran into Winston on my way back to the parking lot and he took time out of his session to take a look at my finger and walk me through the expected recovery time.
I picked up at SPOrt at Vertical World and after a short break was able to continue climbing. My injury recovered quickly and most importantly, it healed strong! I'm a huge fan of the SPOrt!”
“I suffered a minor A2 pulley injury bouldering in the gym. I say minor because there was no telltale "pop," but it was major enough to keep me out of climbing. Or when I did attempt to climb, I could only do so with pain.
I tried taping and and being conservative with hold/route selection. I tried (minimal) time off and less climbing days. I tried ignoring it. But the pain persisted. A friend told me about his success with the SPOrt so I figured I had nothing to lose. I'm psyched I tried it. I was able to climb immediately with much less pain. More importantly, with the support of the SPOrt, my injury was able to heal fully WHILE STILL CLIMBING.
I'd definitely recommend Dr. Warme's SPOrt to others also suffering from finger injuries.”